Stuck L1 Speaker

The bottom radiator on one of my L1 Mod II systems is stuck in the power stand. I've repeatedly confirmed that the legs are fully extended yet the speaker won't come off. I've had to drag the speaker/stand out in the rain to load in my vehicle after a gig and I am not a happy camper at this moment. Another band member claims he has similar issues. As expensive as these things are, you'd think they've have better quality control.

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Original Post
Dear Stryder,

We are really sorry to hear you are having this issue. We can certainly assist you with this issue, and strongly encourage you to call us directly, where we can go over an immediate solution for you.

Please call 877-335-2673, Monday Through Saturday, and talk to one of our L1 Specialists, and they can get you set up with a solution.

Tomorrow, Monday December 20th, will be very, very busy in the morning(between 8:30 and 12:00 eastern time.) If you don't want to hold for an extended period, call after lunch time!

Again, sorry this has happened, but we want to make it right.

Thank you and have a great day,

Eric-at-Bose
Okay, I spoke with a Bose tech who claims this doesn't happen too often, that it would be impractical to ship the items as is and so advised me to take the folding legs off and to see if I can access the speaker lock from the bottom. Problem is that the folding legs won't come off despite some heavy tugging and thumping. Furtheremore, there's no way to access all the screws to remove the bottom section because the folding legs must come off first. I've got another gig tomorrow and this issue is really getting to me. Anyone got any ideas?
This is an area where the good folks at Bose dissappoint me. I know this has happened a few times, and I know they are aware. What I don't know is why. Is it related to some very early models or is it a fault that occurs in the assembly process and could happen at any time. Is it related to the way an owner handles his equipment, should there be a warning or suggestion on how to avoid this from happening?

Regardless, there should be a set of instructions, available to an owner who experiences this problem, with clear pics and written word to help get it disasembled and put back together in a foolproof manner.

I haven't seen the assembly disassembled, but feel like it is highly predictable where the glitch is and thus should be easy enough to determine and document the procedure for a fix.

It know is a rare occurance, but that matters little if it is your's that has failed.

Stryder, can you tell us in detail what moves and doesn't move.

I don't have time right now but will try to look closely this weekend at one of mine to see if I can come up with an idea.

In the meantime I would wrap the speaker in a blanket for padding and lay it on a table or across a couple of sawhorses. Get the base off the floor where you can sit and work on it. Rotate the assembly, listen for loose parts, inspect with a light, look for access to the internal mechanism where movement might be present, have patience, you might figure it out and teach the rest of us something.

O..
Thanks, Oldghm. Have had the units for over a year and never had any significant problems until now. The radiators always easily slid into the power stand and fit snugly but never required undue force to remove them. I always thought this was a good thing and prevented the towers from wobbling.

All was fine when setting up for the last gig but when it came time to break down the left side set of speakers, the bottom speaker wouldn't come out (dismantled the right side L1 system without problems). Knowing that there's a pin wich extends out into the bottom of the L1 base when the power stand legs are fully extended, I repeatedly made sure this wasn't causing the problem. No amount of tugging and pulling would dislodge the radiator. The club was closing, so I had to haul the darn things out in the rain to my vehicle and haul it away unprotected. Sucks but I had no choice

After speaking to a Bose tech, I wasn't too happy with my remaining choices to resolve the problem. He indicated that since it would be impractical to ship the unit as is, I may have to remove the bottom section to access the problem area and it may take a lot of force to remove the radiator -- so much force I may end up damaging parts. I guess there are no instructions for properly dismantling the power stand base, especially for problems like this?

I wrapped the L1 radiator with a thick blanket and elevated the system on stands sideways so that I could work on the base. I removed the rubber feet from the retractable legs but none of the legs would slide out from the power stand. So, I padded one leg and used a rubber hammer to help dislodge it but short of totally destroying the legs, no amount of force would move them. I also tried unscrewing the bottom of the power stand but the fully extended retractable legs prevented me from accessing some screws.

I take care of all my equipment and my Bose systems nary have a fingernail scratch on them. I'm anal about taking care of all of my gear to a fault (no one touches my band gear except me). And that's why I cannot understand why all of a sudden the radiator would be stuck.

By posting in this forum, I'm hoping someone could offer practical suggestions on resolving my problem. Thanks to all.
Oldghm: The legs are stuck in the fully extended position; you can wiggle the radiator a little from the power stand, but that's about it. I don't hear anything loose when rotating the unit, even held the radiator sideways with the power stand inputs towards the top (hoping gravity may help push the pin back towards the power stand enough to dislodge the radiator, all to no avail. Checked all around with flashlight but can't find any other way to access the inside of the power stand except from the bottom, which I said was impossible due to the fully extended legs. BTW, removing the top of the power stand (input/ouput plate) doesn't do any good because the pin is on the opposite side. Thanks again.
Update: Spoke with a very understanding Bose tech (I appreciate their putting up with my impatience) again who suggested I use every means to remove the legs to access all bottom screws, understanding that I may end up damaging the unit. Once completed, I can ship the power stand (or whatever is left) back to them for replacement. I have a gig tonight so the current configuration will have to suffice, then tomorrow I'll take a ball pin hammer and use brute force to "fix" my problem. Will keep you posted on how goes.
I had this problem once with my original L1. In that case, the screws that held the locking plate on the bottom section had come loose, allowing the plate to move a bit, preventing the base locking mechanism from clearing the plate and preventing the removal of the tower section from the base.

The fix was to get into the base unit from the bottom and disassemble the locking system so that the tower section could be removed. Once that was done, a couple quick turns of a screwdriver to tighten the locking plate down to the tower section and I haven't had a problem since (about two years).

The surgery itself was a fairly involved process and not one I would recommend if you are not technically adept. A number of wiring harness connections that needed to be labeled for reattachment, some jigsaw pieces to fit including springs, and ensuring wiring doesn't get pinched during reassembly means that attention to detail is a must.

If you want, drop me a PM and we can talk more about my experience with it...
Hi NetTek,

There is major difference between the Model I / Classic powerstand and the Model II like stryder has.

stryder,

Man that's tough being told you have to destroy parts to get it separated.

I wonder if you could measure / guesstimate where the hidden screws are under the legs and drill a 5/16 hole just though the leg to get screwdriver access to the head of the screw?? And if you could, would it reduce the beating and banging one has to do to remove the legs??

Just a thought. Hope they are planning on taking care of you.

O..
NekTek: I'm not familiar with the Model 1 but examined the locking plate on the bottom of my Model 2 L1 lower radiator. Yeah, I can see where the plate could move if the two screws that secure it come loose. I could be wrong but on the Model II, a loose plate doesn't look like it would create any obstruction that prevents the radiator from being pulled out.

If in fact the locking plate screws came loose, it doesn't look like there's a way to access and tighten them because the radiator sits in a cup mounted on the base stand, and the only other opening on that cup is a small wiring access hole on the bottom.

I was thinking that if I could remove the cup, I could send it and the L1 radiator back to Bose for repairs.

I will email you and send pics for clarity. Many thanks for your help.
to 'O": I can see at least 2 screws partially obscured by each leg.

Set up for a gig last night and got no sound from that speaker....completely dead! No amount of tweaking could bring it back to life. Struggled through the first set with only 1 L1 system (system couldn't keep up with the volume and type of music we play) until we could install a backup L1 for the rest of the night.

Got another gig tonight and will see if I can dismantle this very expensive boat anchor on Sunday. Thanks.
Hi stryder,

Well I spent a few minutes looking at the Model II powerstand and there are at least two maybe three screws that are obstructed on each of the front legs, didn't spend much time on that idea as it didn't seem likely to improve the situation.

I didn't try to disassemble mine but I wondered why it is difficult to remove the legs. I don't see more than the one screw centered in the pivot point? Looks like a small pry bar would bring it right off, but looks can be deceiving.

There are only two parts that I could see that could cause binding. One is the movable arm / bar that is designed to keep you from installing the speakers without spreading the legs. The other is the small flat piece on the part of the speaker that rests against that bar when the speaker is installed. It is held in place with two screws that if they were loose might allow that small plate to bind in some manner.

Before beating on it again have a friend hold it by the extended rear legs with the speaker horizontal and wiggle the speaker a bit to see if that bar might move back into the recess of the base and allow the speaker to come free.

If you have a small, flat, thin, prybar it might be worthwhile to place it under the lip of the plastic housing on the bottom of the speaker and lightly pry to see if you get any movement. Again I would do this with the assembly in a position that eliminates as much gravity as possible.

When this is over I would certainly like to know what is happening that makes the speaker stick. If it is mechanical, is there maintenence that can be performed to insure it not happening again? Could it be a foreign object that got into the well unseen? Could someone have poured something into the well while the system was set up that dried and caused the sticking?

O..
Stryder,

Please accept our apologies for the inconvenience that this issue has caused. We take great care in the design of the system components, it is clear that we need to make a change to our manufacturing process to prevent this from happening in the future. I would encourage all users that are concerened with this happening to them to add a drop of locktite to the (2)screws identified in the attached diagram. We will take the steps to address this on future production units.

In terms of freeing the radiator from the power stand, removing the screws for the casing of the power stand will not solve the issue. The power stand boot and back plate are connected. To separate the components for shipping purposes, you may be better off standing on the legs of the power stand while rocking the radiator back and forth, ultimately applying some upward pressure to free the radiator. This is an extremely rare occurence, thank you for working with us as we try to resolve this as quickly as possible.

Thank you
Neil
"O": Thanks for the input, I'll try your suggestion as soon as I get home. I did check for soda/alcohol spills around the power stand boot while trying to dismantle it at the gig but everything was dry. I did apply a touch of WD40 around the boot opening but didn't help either.
Neil: Many thanks for the explanation of what may be causing my problem. I think you may have it the nail on the head. Certainly makes sense how a loose upper screw could catch on the upper section of the sliding pin channel of the power stand boot. I can feel it as I lift the L1 radiator -- it moves up partially then something stops it from coming off completely. I just hope I didn't bend that screw too much when applying upward force. Will keep ya posted.
Yay! Finally got the speaker off the power stand. Had several folks try to yank it off per recommendations, all to no avail. Finally, my son placed the unit on it's side and put his full weight to close the power stand legs and presto....something popped, the legs folded inwards and the speaker came loose! Now, something is rattling inside the power stand. I put so much stress rocking the speaker back and forth, I better send it and the stand to Bose to have them checked out. Thanks to all who offered suggestions on how to resolve my problem. Hope Bose rectifies this problem in future production models.
Thanks, ST..will keep ya posted.

BTW, I examined the lower section of the radiator and just as Neil and Oldghm suspected, the problem turns out to be the upper screw on that removable plate. It had come slightly loose and was catching on the top of the recessed cutout of the power stand boot.

All that force being applied while removing the radiator from the power stand eventually bent the screw (thus confirming that it was the culprit).
Good news!

After removing the stuck speaker radiator I tested it and was pleased that there were no issues other than a bent screw and a slightly enlarged screw hole on that small adjusting plate at the bottom of the radiator. I asked Bose to just send a replacement plate with screws but they had a better offer -- send the entire system back and they'll replace them free of charge!

Didn't noticed this before but the radiator speakers come in matched pairs with the same serial number; so, if either of the speakers need repair, you'll have to send both back.

I had just completed packing the system when I received email that my brand new replacement units had been shipped. They also emailed pre-paid shipping labels for sending the old units back. Wow! Talk about quick service. I eventually received the brand new L1 stack/power stand and all is well.

Many thanks to everyone at Bose for resolving this issue to my satisfaction. It certainly removes any lingering doubts about purchasing Bose equipment in the future. My experience says (loud and clear) that Bose stands behind its products.

Finally, thanks to forum members who offered helpful suggestions on solving my problem.
quote:
Posted Tue March 22 2011 08:29 AM Hide Post
Hi Stryder,

Thank you for all of you help in confirming the issue and your patience throughout the process. We are thrilled that you are up and running again and pleased with the service you received; I will be sure to share this with the team.

Hi All

I own a Model2 and a Compact, with Tonematch. Without going into detail let me tell you that Bose not only stands by their product but they bend over forwards, backwards and anyway they can...to get you up and running ASAP. In this day and age of firms forgetting you "after" the sale Bose has proven to me without a doubt that "QUALITY IS THEIR ONLY ALTERNATIVE", both in product and Service after the sale.

Nuff said

AJ
"Music is neither new or old.....it just "is"

Regards,
Neil

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