Pack Lite Amp (clipping)

So I have been using my newish B1 setup hooking it up via the Bass line out, and I gotta say while it sounds fine, there is something that continues to bother me, and almost seems like a design flaw.

The PacLite will flicker (begin to limit) red very very easily, and even hold red on certain songs for a few seconds, while the tower is not even flickering the limit light. Only when I really push the tower, does it begin to flicker.

One would think they would be designed to come on around the same time.

Am I truly clipping the Packlite amp? I don't want to damage or not get the most out of the setup. I will admit it's very hard to tell if there is any negative audible effects of this, but if it truly is clipping, they B1s are not performing at optimal conditions.

I called BOSE, and in short, they said this is just how it is Frown

They told me I would probably be happier with the F1 subs.

So my second part of the question, is:

If I use the BASS LINE OUT ( with no b1 or b2), to go into the F1 is there any type of processing applied besides a crossover (40-200), which would match up with the F1?

I researched around, and it seems people that have tried this type of setup have mentioned the F1 sub clipping really early and not sounding as good as connecting to F1 sub first, then to the L1 (meaning it sounded better not using the BASS LINE OUT).

Looking forward to the people's experiences here.
Original Post
Hi Jaswrx,

Just flying by, only have a moment.

quote:
Originally posted by jaswrx:
So I have been using my newish B1 setup hooking it up via the Bass line out, and I gotta say while it sounds fine, there is something that continues to bother me, and almost seems like a design flaw.

The PacLite will flicker (begin to limit) red very very easily, and even hold red on certain songs for a few seconds, while the tower is not even flickering the limit light. Only when I really push the tower, does it begin to flicker.

One would think they would be designed to come on around the same time.

Actually... they were not. The A1 PackLite predates the Model II Power Stand.
quote:


Am I truly clipping the Packlite amp? I don't want to damage or not get the most out of the setup. I will admit it's very hard to tell if there is any negative audible effects of this, but if it truly is clipping, they B1s are not performing at optimal conditions.

If the red light is flickering on briefly, it means that you are just approaching clipping.
quote:

I called BOSE, and in short, they said this is just how it is Frown

They told me I would probably be happier with the F1 subs.

So my second part of the question, is:

If I use the BASS LINE OUT ( with no b1 or b2), to go into the F1 is there any type of processing applied besides a crossover (40-200), which would match up with the F1?

With no bass modules attached to a Model II Power Stand with the latest System EQ will present the B2 EQ voicing at the Bass Line Out. Edit: The voicing is the same as with a B2 attached and the B2 Bass Level Switch set to normal. Source: Model II B2 EQ post Firmware 1.4 with System EQ 1.04

If the B2 works with the B2 Switch in all three positions, then the Model II Power Stand is running the latest System EQ.
quote:

I researched around, and it seems people that have tried this type of setup have mentioned the F1 sub clipping really early and not sounding as good as connecting to F1 sub first, then to the L1 (meaning it sounded better not using the BASS LINE OUT).

I haven't noticed the clipping but I would run to the F1 Subwoofer first and then to the L1®.
quote:

Looking forward to the people's experiences here.


ST
ok, so the A1 packlite predates the PACLITE..

That might explain things, but one would think they would have come out with a newer paclite as it is sometimes solid red, while the L1 is cruising by. It should not be clipping when the L1 tower isn't.

I called BOSE again, and they said they said the Bass Line out is just a bass out (with no B1 hooked up) but with a crossover applied, and according to you, that is wrong.

Is there anything in writing stating what you are saying about the bass line out applying a B2 eq curve and protection with no B1 or B2 attached.


And Yes I have the latest firmware.

If I were to get a F1 sub, it seems the best way to run it would be to go into the F1 first, then into the L1, BUT with one B1 attached to fill the missing gap between the towers and F1 sub.

I know the F1 sub plays to 250, but it is not voiced to match with the L1 towers, and when I demo'd them, I definitely noticed a gap of midbass when paired with the L1, even though it states it plays all the way up to 250. The F1 seems to be much stronger 150 hertz and down, and not a lot above that, which is generally how most powered subs are.

Now of course with the 812, that is not a problem, b/c the 812 has the 12" woofer suppling the midbass.

Thoughts?

Hi guys,

kind of the same question. I have 2 L 1 model 2s with 3 B2s and 2 B 1s and 2 Packlite amps.

tried everything to stop the red light. Lowered bass in eq,lowered volume. 

Still flashes red. Sometimes a bit to long.

i can't here any distortion or clipping sounds.

is there anyway to control the gain to the amp or do I not have to worry about the flashing clipping light?

thanks!!

Neumann

Hi Neumann,

Thank you for joining the Community. 

Yes, the clip light on the PackLite amp lights up sooner than you might expect. If you are not hearing any distortion or clipping sounds then you're probably fine.

No, you can't alter the gain on the amp or the signal output from the Model II Power Stand.

If you are really concerned about the lights or you start to hear distortion or clipping, then you can put a 10 dB attenuator pad between the Model II Power Stand Bass Line Out and the PackLite input. 

I did a quick search on the web for a 10 dB attenuator pad and everything I found has XLR connectors. You'll probably have to add XLR to 1/4" Tip-Ring-Sleeve adapters or cobble something together on your own.

Does that help?

ST

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