I have a wedding in a remote location, I was originally thinking of using a generator. However, a friend of mine said he had used something they bought from sears, that was essentially like a car battery with a converter.

Is there such a beast, I dont want to kill my PAS so should I use some sort of power conditioner with it. This would be great if such a thing exists.
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Hi Bob,

Can you get the specifications for the "something they bought at sears" ?

and

for your generator.

For each System (you have two right?)
You want something that can supply around 5 amps at 120 volts (600 watts) on a continuous basis for the length of the show.
Bob,

Yes you're right about the peaks and the math. In practice you can usually run 2 or 3 Systems on a 15 amp line without any trouble so 5 amps seems to be fine most of the time.

I spent a little time banging around the web and on sears.com looking for anything suitable. There might be something out there but I couldn't find it. I did find a few things, but the run-times were counted in minutes not hours.

If you're talking about the wedding ceremony, are we talking just 'spoken word'?

If so, even if you have the B1s hooked up, you're probably not going to be pushing them so you probably won't be drawing much from Amp3. (250 watts).
Bob

A sufficiently sized generator will work with our system although the tend to be fairly noisy.

Car battery converters (so called "inverters") are a little problematic. Most inverters don't work well with our highly-efficient Switch Mode Power Supplies and need to be 2 to 3 times oversized. That draws really big amounts of current from the car battery and the wiring from the battery to the inverter needs to be able to handle that. This is by no means a trivial job, so we recommend against it.

Hope that helps

Hilmar
My Honda EU2000i has performed flawlessly with a complete 2 L1 - 4 B1 system, mixer, wireless mics, power conditioner, laptops, external hard drives, etc. It is light, extremely quiet, and uses inverter technology to produce steady, clean, and protected 110v AC.

At $900, it's about the highest price for it's size and capacity but anything as exceptional as this unit is worth it.

During a test, at extremely loud volumes, pushing both sticks hard, the draw never reached nor peaked beyond 6.0amps. At a 15amp rated output, it's merely idling.

There are two brands (Yamaha being one) of similar specs yet 1/3 less the price. Nowhere near as quiet as the Honda regradless of what is advertised.
Reviving an old thread regarding generators... ok, so large generators that are frequently used for events are ok... would it be recommended to use a Furman for the L1s? I remember there being an issue with Furman conditioners and the Classic PS1... have these been addressed?

Is the power conditioner on the Model II (The Model IIs are fuse-less already right?) enough to not need a Furman? Would an online-UPS (True UPS) system work well with the L1? Or am I just better off plugging straight into the generator strip?

My Classic failure happened when the voltage dropped (I think it fried the power supply of my L1) so I'm more paranoid about the potential damage a voltage drop could do to the Model IIs... if it just trips the breaker, and all I have to do is restart... then that's ok... as long as it doesn't fry anything.
quote:
Originally posted by Hilmar-at-Bose:
Bob

A sufficiently sized generator will work with our system although the tend to be fairly noisy.

Car battery converters (so called "inverters") are a little problematic. Most inverters don't work well with our highly-efficient Switch Mode Power Supplies and need to be 2 to 3 times oversized. That draws really big amounts of current from the car battery and the wiring from the battery to the inverter needs to be able to handle that. This is by no means a trivial job, so we recommend against it.

Hope that helps

Hilmar


Hey Hilmar, I take it modified sine wave inverters don't make the cut, but pure sine waves work as advertised. Tripp Lite describes the output of many of their inverters as PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) sine. I understand that Pulse Width Modulation, when done well, can much more closely approximate a sine wave. Do you think these inverters will perform well with the bose towers?
I Have a Duracell DPP-600HD Jump Starter. I have tested my L1 M1 for an hour and a half with it. That includes a pair of AKG wireless lapel rcvrs, laptop and a tonematch. But, because I now have an L1 Compact, I never used it at a gig. I get 3.5 hours off the Jumpstarter with the same rig using the Compact.

The Jumpstarter shuts down when it can no longer produce 110 V. Still, to be safe, I place an emergency power back up (the type you get for a computer) between the Jumpstarter and my rig so there is no issue with power fading damaging my components. Be cautious, the breaker on some backups will pop from the slightest increase in load but a single L1 should not be an issue.

You can piggyback another battery on top of the Jumpstarter and extend the time. A slow drain marine battery would be perfect. I expect you could easily get several hours additional time with a good sized battery.

On price...
Jumpstarter $145 (on line)
Marine Slow Discharge Battery $125 (from your local auto supply center.)
Emergency back up power supply $75 (on line)
For ceremonies, I use the Bose L1 Compact® sound system with a Duracell PowerPack 600 inverter batter (supplies 600 watts max). I can EASILY get a minimum of 2.5 hours for the L1 Compact, a MacBook Pro laptop, a Sennheiser wireless system, and 3 Shure lavalier wireless mics.

I have run the system up to 3.5 hours on the Duracell PowerPack 600. (Available through Amazon for $136.57.)

For longer and/or larger gigs, I purchased the Honeywell HW2000i (rated for 2000 watts), and it ran for five hours on a gallon and a half of gasoline. (This is an inverter generator, which I like better because it supposedly provides a more consistent and reliable power supply. (Cost through Amazon is $499.00)


Just my two cents' worth.

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